New York City–based artist Thomas Garbutt has compiled a
lifetime’s worth of priceless advice for anyone ready to jump into the world of
building Pellerin
paper models. In this installment of our ongoing series, Thomas discusses
the use of clamps.
A Pressing Matter
by Thomas Garbutt
Clamps are one of those tools paper model builders tend to
forget about until it is too late. It’s easy to get so absorbed and focused on
gluing two pieces of your model together that you forget to plan how you will
hold them until they’re dry. Unless you like sitting using your hands for this
job, get yourself some clamps.
When it comes to paper crafts, I am a believer in the ends
justifying the means, so when I find something that works, I use it. Office
supply stores offer a great variety of small clamps sold alongside paper clips,
staples, and other tiny tools for holding paper together. In my experience the
best such tools are binder clips—they are
great at clamping together two pieces of paper along an edge, and they are
usually quite inexpensive. The disadvantage to binder clips is that they don’t
have much depth.
For large pieces needing clamping, or any pieces with glue
further from the edge, binder clips won’t help. You need to think big! Find a
book large enough to cover the entire
glued area, open it up to about the middle, and insert your pieces to be glued.
To keep any extra glue from sticking to the pages of your book, layer wax paper
on either side of your pieces. If you don’t think the weight of the book will
be enough to provide sufficient pressure, just set it on the floor and pile on
a few more heavy books. This technique works best with hardcover books, as
their pages tend to slip less as you close the book or set more weight on top.
Tweezers are
terrific for holding really small parts. I have several styles in my paper
modeling toolkit, mostly with pointed ends for greater precision. One variety
even locks in place when pressed together—very handy indeed! As with much of
paper model building, experimentation is key. Look for tweezers on eBay, in
health and beauty stores, even in thrift shops. Street fairs sometimes have
vendors who sell small tools such as tweezers. Keep your eyes open for any
opportunity.
Whenever you use clamps, think about how much pressure they
are exerting and whether or not they will leave marks or indentations on your
model. Binder clips are especially notorious for this, as their grip is very
strong and is focused on a single line of pressure the width of the clip. If
you think your model is in danger of being damaged by your clip, you can always
cut some small scraps of cardstock or
paper from the leftover trimmings of your model sheet, sandwiching them around
your glued pieces before applying the clamp. Using stiff pieces of solid
cardboard will help spread out the
pressure so that you get a more even clamp over a larger area.
The best “clamp” I have found, though, isn’t really a clamp
at all. It’s the blue tape used to mask
off areas during house painting. I must be clear here that I’m not referring
to the traditional off-white masking tape. The glue on it is far too strong and
will pull off the printing on your pieces if used as a clamp. Find the blue-colored tape—ScotchBlue Painter’s Tape by 3M is an
excellent one—as it has enough holding power and can be removed without lifting
off the printed surface.
Blue tape comes in many widths. I’ve found the one-inch
width to be the most useful. Cut several pieces first, pulling a length of the
tape and cutting it into half-inch strips. Lightly tack them along the edge of
your work surface so they are easy to grab when you need them. Apply the glue
to the pieces you wish to join, and then press the small strips of tape across
the seam as needed. The tape will hold the pieces together until the glue sets.
There is one important caveat, however: Make sure no glue is squeezed out of
the edge and contacting the tape, as when you peel off the tape you will lift
off some of the model’s printing as well.
This is the third installment in Thomas Garbutt’s tools
and techniques for paper model building. The first two essays covered glues
and adhesives and cutting
methods. Our interview with Thomas on his experience working with paper
models can be read here.
Browse Castle in the Air’s selection of more than 300
vintage French paper model reproductions
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